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Oil-based vs. water-based sealer – which to use and why

Updated May 11, 2023

Imagine you spend forever sanding, priming, and painting a beautiful piece of furniture you found at a garage sale. It looks fantastic…you breathed new life into it like a freaking pro. Go you! The last step is to protect the paint so it looks this amazing forever. You grab a sealer from the hardware store without much thought…because sealer is sealer, right? Except it’s not, and your entire project turns yellow and streaky, completely ruining it.

oil based sealer over paint

As you can see in the above photo, this has happened to me…multiple times. It sucks, and I don’t want the same thing to happen to you. So let’s have a fun little conversation about a very boring subject…water-based vs oil-based sealers.

No matter how many confusing names they give sealers, for the purposes of this post they boil down to two categories – Oil-based sealers and water-based sealers. Here are a few facts about each type –

Oil-based sealers

  • Offers great protection
  • Strong odor
  • Has an amber tint
  • Has a long cure time (24 hours or more before recoat)
  • Less expensive than water-based poly
  • Thicker and requires fewer coats than a water-based sealer
  • Must be cleaned up with mineral spirits
  • Will yellow over time (and will ruin painted projects)
  • Gives wood a deeper, richer color

Water-based sealers

  • Offers great protection (some say less than oil-based, but I haven’t found that to be true)
  • Looks milky in the can, goes on completely clear
  • Shorter cure time (4-hour recoat or less)
  • More expensive than oil-based poly
  • Can be cleaned up with water
  • Stays clear over the years
  • Can look dull on wood pieces

This gets even more confusing because they now mix and match names – I once bought and used a can labeled “water-based oil-modified polyurethane” I mean….what the hell does that even mean?

Water based polyurathane

I used it and can tell you exactly what it means…it means it will turn yellow and ruin your entire painted project. If the can says oil on it, no matter how much it also says the word water elsewhere on the can… it will yellow over time.

Which sealer should I choose?

I choose to use a water-based sealer on about 95% of my projects. 

There are countless things out there that need sealer, but for this post we are talking about small household DIY projects…furniture, cabinets, doors, etc. For these types of projects, I choose a water-based sealer 95% of the time. Why? It’s simple to use (easy cleanup, quick dry time), offers fantastic protection, and DOESN’T YELLOW. Not yellowing is the kicker here. If the thing you are sealing is painted, then you absolutely need to be using a water-based sealer. I am telling you from experience that if you use an oil-based sealer over paint it will look horrible in about a week. The finish will turn yellow and streaky and you will be forced to redo your entire project.

There are a few instances where I will choose an oil-based sealer. If the project is wooden, sometimes an oil-based sealer is a better choice because it gives the wood depth and color than water-based can’t provide. If you are sealing a wood that usually looks great with an orangy/amber tint, choose an oil-based sealer…water-based may make your project look dull and lifeless. If your wood project is whitewashed, a gray shade, rustic barn wood, or a shallow light wood like maple, go water-based.

Oil vs water based sealer

My favorite sealer is polycrylic, a water-based sealer that has never failed me. Plus it’s cheap. It comes in all different sheens, satin is probably the most popular. I personally am a big fan of the matte because I don’t like my finishes to be shiny at all, and this is a great one.

Anyway, that is a very simplified answer to the oil vs. water debate, but hopefully you found it helpful! If you have any specific questions please ask in the comments, I have spent an embarrassing amount of time experimenting with sellers over the years and I would love to put that knowledge to good use!

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17 Comments

  1. This is amazing, I also a big fan of matte, it looks so beautiful and gorgeous. Great choice and style. Thanks for the share

  2. Wow! Thank you very much for your advice! Wonderful article, I am very glad that I was lucky to find it. I’m moving right now to another, bigger house, than mine, and I’m gonna make a full renovation there, and I want to equip a lot with my own hands. I really want to restore several antique items with my own hands, and place them in the hall and bedroom. I already have several ideas, but since I will be doing this for the first time in my life, it will be quite difficult for me to select the right materials. Therefore, your help with the choice of sealer is now very necessary for me. So, thanks again!)

  3. Thanks,
    I have already stained and put a three coats of oil based sealer onto unpainted wood. Can I use a water based sealer on top of the oil based sealer?
    Thanks again,
    T

  4. I HAVE A PAINTED SCENE ON LARGE PIECE OF CYPRESS. THE PERSON WHO PAINTED IT SEALED IT WITH A CLEAR ENAMEL SPRAY AND TOLD ME TO RESEAL IT AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR. IT IS EXPOSED TO THE WEATHER AT ALL TIMES. WHAT TYPE OF SEALER WOULD YOU SUGGEST?

    THANKS

  5. Thank you very much for your article. I have a large pressure treated deck that needs to be resealed (I am not really fond of stain/sealers). Approximately 90% of this deck was replaced in 2018 and sealed with a clear sealant but I do not know whether it was oil or water based (the contractor believes it was a Thompson’s.product but not sure if it was oil or water based) The 10% that was not replaced (posts/rails) was sealed a couple years ago with an oil based product (I believe a Cabot’s product). After reading your web site I believe that I would like to go back with a clear water based product but I am not really sure. I have two questions: Is a water based product the best product type to use on a deck that see’s a lot of sun light? Can I use a water based sealant over top of an oil based sealant, and if so is there any special wood preparations I need to make prior to application?

  6. I just stood in Home Depot for about 20 minutes staring at all of the different polyurethanes. Wish I had read your article first.
    This was so helpful, thank you!!

  7. Wish I found this post yesterday. My hardwood floors using water based are dull and lifeless. Did a test section first and can confirm water seal on wood natural or stained will look almost the exact before the finish is applied. Anyway thanks for the article and sharing your past experiences.

  8. Is it ok to apply an oil based water repellent sealant over top of an acrylic water repellent sealant?

    1. I would not recommend this. These two types of sealants penetrate differently, and if you apply an oil-based sealant over an acrylic sealant you risk creating a layering effect that may not bond properly.

  9. My husband and I just spent a small fortune on custom made maple kitchen cabinets. We love the natural wood, so no staining. We’re using Minwax Polycrylic waterbased satin sealer. The bubbles are terrible! We’re using expensive brushes. We’ve tried dry brushes and, as suggested, wet brushes. We let the layers dry. Still, bubbles. What can we do? I’m losing sleep over this!

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